Wednesday 23 June 2010

From Stretham Ferry, Old West River to Pike and Eel Inn, River Great Ouse

Well today has been just like an aqua safari!

From seeing crested grebe swimming below the surface,in clear water, to seeing sizeable pike lurking in the shadows, to a white egret, to oyster catchers, goldfinches feasting on thistles, to a grey seal. Yes, we passed a grey seal swimming with purpose along the short tidal stretch between Brownshill Staunch and Hermitage Lock. The EA lockeeper told us the seal has been semi resident along this stretch for some while, and there is a chance we may see a second seal further upstream.

All this in addition to grey heron, cormorant, swans, Canada geese, ducks etc etc which we have come to take for granted. Some of the wild life is obviously unused to boats as some swans and ducks start mad flapping of wings and trying to stay ahead of the boat, warning us off, we think.

Our day has taken us through Earith where George Jewson and his son John founded the builders merchants and their wharf and lime kilns still remain.

Tuesday 22 June 2010

Ely, River Great Ouse to Stretham Ferry, Old West River

A perfect day for boating. We left Ely in blazing sunshine, passing the empty Kings School boathouses (the students were already out on the river) ,and continued our way south and further up the River Great Ouse, with a gentle warm breeze to accompany us. At Pope's Corner we branched right and onto the Old West River that will take us to Huntingdon and later to Bedford. Speed is now 4mph and the blanket weed is with us again, bright green swathes hiding long ropey strands below the surface. This stretch has a much classsier type of water lily - white open flowers with a yellow core, as well as the usual plain yellow lillies we are used to.

We passed by Stretham Old Engine house where in 1831 Boulton and Watt built a steam pumping engine to lift water from the surrounding fens up into the Old West River. The engine was still working until 1941, but is now preserved, but we need to be here at a weekend to see it.

We moored for lunch at a Great Ouse Boating Association mooring at Stretham Ferry. It was not our intention to stay here for the afternoon, but as it is such a lovely spot, with a lovely pub too - The Lazy Otter - time passed by so quickly in the sun, with just the birds to watch, including a mother grebe, teaching her chick how to dive!

Monday 21 June 2010

Ely, River Great Ouse

We have spent today exploring Ely, and what a great day we have had in the summer sun.

Ely waterfront is very attractive, and from there we decided to follow the eel trail to take us around the city.

This took us through very neat gardens and attractive flower displays, lots of lovely lavender, then through the nail scissored grounds around the Cathedral and on to Oliver Cromwells House, where he lived for 10 years. The Cathedral is very imposing, has an octagonal tower, and well worth a visit. There is a stained glass museum and also Ely musem, so plenty to go at. Waterside Antiques is an old warehouse crqammed with antiques on 3 floors, and can absorb your atttention too.

We have yet to try eel pie or eel stew, but hope to do so on our return.

No litter and no louts - thank you Ely.

Sunday 20 June 2010

Prickwillow, River Lark to Ely, River Great Ouse

Not a very inspiring start to the day, overcast and cold again, but dry, so we were grateful! we left Prickwillow and continued upstream along the River lark. Several hardy fishermen were out, looking fairly nithered in the conditions. Dotted along the way, there are many defunct engine pump houses, including one that has a plaque to the memory of aptly named Joseph Flatt who worked here in the low lying fens from 1844 until he died in 1900. We also passed the remains of a fenland wind pump, known locally as the Pepper Pot.

As we were passing through the only lock on this river, at Isleham, a huge lumbering aircraft darkened the sky as it took off from nearby Lakenheath. RAF Lakenheath and Mildenhall wartime airfields are nearby and are the reason why so many pill boxes were erected, which are still very visible across the fenland landscape.

At the end of the navigable stretch we turned, and headed back down the river, a little quicker this way, as we were going with the flow. Back onto to the River Great Ouse, and headed for Ely.

From quite a way off we could easily pick out the Norman spires of Ely Cathedral, and as we arrived in the city, the place was buzzing with boats and people. Lucky for us another narrow boat moved off and we used their mooring, otherwise it would have been tricky. A first reccy into the city gives us the feel that it is a place worth exploring and spending time in tomorrow........

Saturday 19 June 2010

From Ten Mile Bank, River Great Ouse to Prickwillow, River Lark, near Ely

A pretty awful day for near midsummer, cold, overcast, strong wind and very heavy downpours.

We battled along the Ouse again, with crested waves, but pulled over at Littleport for a break and then continued on to turn left up the River Lark. The conditions were grim, and so finding a mooring space at Prickwillow was very welcome.

The high spot of the day was a visit to the Prickwillow Drainage Engine Museum! just across the road. In the original pump house, there is a charming collection of large historic diesel engines, all with bright brass and smartly painted red/green. These were the early work horses responsible for maintaining drainage of the fens. There is also some very interesting history and photographic displays relating to fen the area. If our return down the River Great Ouse coincides with their next engine running event, we will make a point of stopping here again.

Friday 18 June 2010

From Hilgay, River Wissey and back onto River Great Ouse to moor at Ten Mile bank

Such a contrast in weather today, cold and grey skies - soon be summer. We continued up the River Wissey and came to a huge British Sugar Beet plant, not a pretty sight in the middle of such rural tranquillity. At the time of the beet harvest, farmers for miles around queue to deliver their crops to the plant. On the opposite bank are acres of low level glass houses growing tomatoes, using the heat exhaust from the sugar beet plant. We can vouch that the tomatoes from there are very sweet and a great flavour, as the cheery butcher in Hilgay had some for sale. We turned round in a huge lake, which appeared to be used exclusively by British Sugar fisher folk.

Our mooring this evening is on the river again, using a new Environment Agency facility at Ten Mile Bank. Having just looked at the Ten Mile Bank history site, this stretch of the river actually froze earlier this year! it could do again any day!

Thursday 17 June 2010

From Upwell Town Staithe, to Hilgay, River Wissey, River Great Ouse

Today, we continued along the Nene Ouse Navigation Link moving along Well Creek, a narrow thread of water, wrestling with tough strands of bright green weed at times. At Nordelph, another village that lines both sides of the water, each in a different county, but having attractive houses, even an old windmill, now residential. We reached Salters Lode a little early and so had to wait for the lock keeper to say when conditions were right, and he would allow us into the lock and out on to the River Great Ouse. This is tidal water, going to Kings Lynn if we turn left, or to Denver Sluice to the right, which is our route. So full power on oncwe had passed under the raised electric guillotine gate, and hard turn right, and the sluice was then in our sight. Although a short stretch of water to the sluice, there was quite a buffeting from the strong wind and waves. To our surprise, we passed a hire boat doing the stretch in reverse. They would have had quite a job turning into Salters Lode lock in these conditions. We couldn't watch as we had our our own moves to make!

A little sigh of relief as we reached the sanctuary of the lock alongside Denver Sluice. Once through the lock we were greeted by a wide expanse of river, and we moved upstream, and soon turned left, and on to the River Wissey. This stretch of water has been recommended and it immediately becomes evident why. It is a quiet backwater, no habitation, but almost like boating through a nature reserve. We spot the moorings provided by the local boat association, which we will probably use tomorrow on our return down the Wissey. We quietly move along and eventually come into the hamlet of Hilgay, and moor. A pub and butchers shop selling everything and neatly kept houses, but the bypass has meant the petrol station is no more.